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Majestic Wadi Rum -- a vast, silent
landscape of ancient riverbeds and pastel-coloured stretches of sandy desert,
suddenly shattered by towering sandstone mountains and sheer, shimmering
cliff-faces is only one hour drive from Petra to the east. Wadi Rum is
hauntingly beautiful, and always privately moving -- a marvel of God's enduring
creation, against which the measure of humankind seems so small and fleeting.
Its moonscape-like surface takes on subtly different hues throughout the day and
night, changing with the seasons of the year. Here is an unspoilt natural beauty
forged by millions of years of geological formation, erosion and evolution. It
is only one hour drive to the north of Aqaba. This is also home for the
semi-nomadic Bedouin living in their great goat's hair tents, tending their
herds of sheep and goat, and preserving an ancient lifestyle that has been
practiced in the Arabian desert for thousands of years.
Wadi Rum is a vast house of clues
from the past -- for almost every valley, mountainside or large fallen boulder
has some vestige or hint of human activity that took place here during the past
several thousand years. Everywhere there are Thamudic, Safaitic, Nabataean,
Greek and Arabic graffiti and some formal inscriptions, a rich repertoire of
rock art depicting hunting scenes, cultic symbols or just the fanciful creations
of a passing shepherd or soldier, sophisticated hydraulic works such as dams and
water channels, simple stone burials, remnants of little houses, rudimentary
Stone Age rock shelters, and even an elaborate Nabataean temple. More recently,
Rum was the scene of the exploits of Lawrence of Arabia during World War I, and
the setting for the film that carried his name.
Wadi Rum has recently been discovered
by the world's mountain climbers and hikers, attracted by its many as yet
unscaled peaks, spectacular natural scenery, ease of access, comfortable
year-round climate, and variety of available walks, climbs, hikes and
treks catering to advanced climbers or novice hikers alike. The region has also
become a favourite of hand-gliding clubs in the area, with its near perfect
conditions for hand-gliding and kiting. Many adventurous travellers camp in
small groups inside Wadi Rum, to capture the lasting memory of a warm summer
night's moonrise against a backdrop of the star-filled southern sky of Jordan.
A Beau Geste-style police post,
at the end of the paved road into Rum, houses a small garrison of tough,
handsome and hospitable Jordanian desert police. Adjacent to them is the bedouin
settlement, and the small Tourism Ministry rest house with basic facilities for
climbers and day visitors. There are no sleeping facilities at Wadi Rum, which
is usually visited from Petra or Aqaba.
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